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In addition to the fact that the city is filled with concrete buildings, fine dust levels have been soaring in South Korea, contributing to the “ashy expression.” Grey/ashy might also describe the mundane, colorless city life.
(1) Han is a mix of sorrow, nostalgia, anger, pain, and hope, as explained in this reddit post. Han rhymes with Han Rivers, although the meanings are completely different (Han, emotions, uses 恨, whereas Han in Han River uses 漢).
Cheonggyecheon is a stream running through downtown Seoul from east to west, which provides a large public recreation space. People would stroll along the stream or, in summer, sit beside the stream to chat, eat food, drink beer, or even dip their feet in the cold water. [Update: OP learned that the city of Seoul now prohibits outdoor alcohol consumption at 청계천 (since July 2018).]
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